Where are you surfing on the next swell? For most of us, it is too easy just to make a quick mental scan of our go-to spot short list, match the forecast with the wave that fits best, and head for the beach. Year after year, swell after swell, we stick to our spots as if they are marked on our permanent ID. Height: 5 ft 10 inch. Weight: 165. Breaks: Swamis in the winter, Trestles in the summer. Expires: when you quit or die.
The Psychology of winning is not everything, especially when it comes to riding waves. But for the vast majority of the world's best surfers and the tens of thousands who aspire to be, the idea of "beating" their fellow competitors can be all-consuming. Points. Stars. Seedings. Ratings. Contest terms buzz around their heads like bloodthirsty mosquitoes, only slowing down (at least for the night) after a long drink from the champagne bottle (or, in the kids case, the Red Bull can).
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